I would like to share with you my approach with the very popular Minoru jacket. Today’s post will be dedicated to the making of the muslin. I decided to make my Minoru muslin using fleece from my stash.
Selecting the pattern size:
To select my pattern size, I compared my body measurements to those of the pattern (see table below). For curvies, you usually select the pattern size based on how the bust size is compared to the measurement of your chest (the table below might make this clearer). I chose to go for a size 16.
Plan the pattern modifications:
After selecting the pattern size, I usually take the difference between my measurements and the measurements of the pattern for the bust, the waist and the hips. In this case, the difference came up to 7″ at the bust and hips and 5″ at the waist.
I decided to add 2″ total at the armhole sideseam and 2″ total at the hip sideseam line and grade that line towards the pattern waist smoothly. I then did a full bust adjustment of 2.5″ (to add 5″ total) all the way from the apex to the hip, by following the tutorial on Alana’s Lazy Stitching and Tasia’s Sewaholic blogs. I finally proceeded to make my Minoru muslin in fleece.
Modifications based on this muslin:
After the making of this muslin I decided to add 0.5″ total at each of the back sleeve seams and shift the bottom of the side seam towards the front by about 2″.
All in all, a pretty awesome, quick-to-make, warm and comfy jacket that I wear at home all the time. I strongly recommend making this jacket in fleece if you are cold-sensitive. I’m even considering making one in a cotton fleece for something I can wear outdoors.
I truly love it, I feel like Wonder Woman when I wear it!
Have fun and do let me know if you ever make it!
The final jacket I made after these modifications to the pattern!