Cup modifications: the many muslins

Hi friends,

Today I will share with you a little on how I decided to do quick tests on modifications to the cup shape before settling on one that was good enough for me.

The many muslins 4
Test Cup # 1&2

If you remember from my last post, I drafted size 24F from the EZI SEW nursing bra and this is how it looked. Clearly, the cups were not supportive enough and modifications needed to be made. You can read my thoughts on this bra here.

I remembered that Amy from Cloth Habit had written a post on how to test the fit of a bra as part of her  bra making sewalong.

Trial Run Bra by Amy Cloth Habit
Trial run bra post by Cloth Habit. http://clothhabit.com/bra-making-sew-along-a-trial-run/

Since the pink bra above was not going to get any use, I decided to remove the cups and retrace the band and the cups in cotton muslin. I then proceeded to test the fit of the cups and the effect the alterations had.

 

Each time I made an alteration, I would cut out one new cup, and sew it on the band. It took seven alterations to get to my final draft. The alterations included shifting the cup seam and the strap position, removing and adding darts at different locations along the cup seam, splitting the lower cup and rounding the cup crown.

The many muslins 0.jpg

I then proceeded to cut the fabric for the two cups and sew the final bra (into the same band). This is what it looks like:

 

Likeable & Dislikeable features:

I was pretty happy with the final fit of the cup. I like the support it gives to my breasts and the fact that it lays almost flat against my chest. It makes them more “perky”!!

I also like that it is made in a rather thick cotton muslin (something you would normally use to underline corsets), because although it isn’t very shirt-friendly and the seams don’t lay as smoothly, it feels soft (as opposed to itchy) and provides quite a bit of structure. It is breathable, which I guess will be a good feature for when I actually start to use it for breast feeding (hopefully that goes well…).

When I wore this bra, I felt like I had finally recovered the gap between my belly and my breasts, it was just a lovely feeling!! In a way, I felt like I regained curvy self confidence!!! It is simply amazing what a difference wearing an undergarment with a better fit can do. Here is how this bra compares against the RTW and the my first nursing bra versions.

 

Much better, right??  I love it!!!! ❤

Although there are many likeable features and the fit definitely improved, this bra is still not perfect; the band curls and the elastic digs below my breasts a little. In a future version, I would like to test a few band modifications to make it more comfortable to wear throughout the day.

What do you think? Do you see the difference? Do you have any advice or recommendations? Have you felt a difference wearing more supportive undergarments?

That’s all for today folks! I hope you had a lovely and restful weekend.

❤

M

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13 Comments Add yours

  1. Andie W. says:

    That’s a lot of work! I’m glad you are working out the fit and the final one looks great.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. 🙂 we’re getting there my darling! Thanks!

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Marike Smit says:

    Huge improvement! Well done!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks Marike! It’s also much more comfortable than the RTW one I’ve tried. Hopefully the band modifications on my next version make it super comfortable to wear all day! 😉

      Like

  3. Leila says:

    I’m in the middle of trying to make a bra to fit myself, too. I’m on the 10th revision at this point. After trying various fabric combinations I decided that what works and feels best for me is woven cotton for the lower cup pieces and side panel that goes up to the strap, and 2-way stretch fabric for the upper cup. I love how soft and breathable the cotton is, and how it gives firm support throughout the day.

    Cotton is definitely a good choice for nursing bras. When I was breastfeeding my first baby, I made the mistake of wearing foam cup nursing bras for modesty reasons (even though I knew better), and I ended up getting a yeast infection that wouldn’t go away. For the second baby, I wore breathable cotton bras and had no problems.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Awesome! Thanks for your advice Leila! That is super useful! 🙂 i will surely continue to use woven cotton for my cups, I was wondering if other fabrics would look better, but I would rather to play it safe! 😉

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      1. Leila says:

        You might want to try adding a section of knit fabric on the inner part of the upper cup to account for size fluctuations during breastfeeding. Breast size changes a lot depending on how long it’s been since the baby fed!

        Liked by 1 person

      2. Awesome! Thank you so much! I will try! 😉

        Like

  4. embroiderpiccies says:

    Great result after all that hard work. It looks awesome under your clothes – as you say nice shape and separated from your beautiful mummy to be belly.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Tamara says:

    I have only just jumped onto your blog after seeing your story on cashmerette blog. Congratulations on your pregnancy and the bra making looks very proactive. I do have some advice though. As a mum of three chilfren and all three breastfed, i found that once my milk came in, i had to go up a whole cup size. During my last (and final) pregnancy, i wore an 18d but after baby was bornI had go up to an 18e. Jus be prepared to do more bra making post baby. I hope that you have great succes with nursing your baby and that you become such an expert in nursing bra sewing, that maybe you may be inspired to produce a nursing bra pattern yourself to share with our ladies looking for the support they need. I have never made a bra butafter reading your blog I do feel very inspired and maybe my “girls” can get their perkinessback too – btw I amstill nursingand thebaby is now 16 months old. Thankyou again for sharing your projects. It is so inspiring to see.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Great advice, thanks Tamara!

      I’m happy to hear that you feel inspired. 🙂
      Thanks for your wishes. I hope nursing goes well for us too!

      I was actually quite impressed how much of a difference the right fitting bras and undergarments can make. I have several posts on how I started in case you find the inspiration time and are looking for a place to start.

      As for the cup size, I had been previously adviced in a bra making forum that to accomodate for breast engorgement I should use a more forgiving fabric in the upper cup (such as a knit or a stretchy cotton). I’m currently making a couple of bras following this construction. I’ll let you know how it goes. 🙂 Hopefully there won’t be need to make bras in different sizes and the current ones will be comfortable! 😉

      All best with your babies!

      Mons

      Like

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