Hi my darlings,
Today I bring you another bra. One that I’m very proud of. It is based on the good old Classic Full Band Bra from Bra-makers Supplies.I made a few corrections to the pattern from the last time I made it and I also went a little funkier with the colors, this time making it in blue and gold. This bra is inspired by the night sky, and so I’ve decided to name it “Stardust“.
From the physics prespective, we are stardust because every element in the universe was formed at the heart of a star at the begining of “The Big Bang” almost 14 billion years ago.
Pattern modifications:
So the last time I made this pattern for my Black Lace version, I made a 44 F. I used my regular wire size and I drafted a Power Bar. This time around:
– I used the same pattern and, since the curve of my breast was not completely followed by the wire in my last version, I decided to split the lower cup and curve the new seam to enable the breast to fill this region.
– I took in a full 1/4″ at the top of each cup to reduce the neck line length since my breast would now drop in the cup and the neckline would wrinkle more.
– I added ~3/4″ to the back band which made the band 1.5″ longer.
– Finally, as recommended by my dear L, I curved the bottom of the front band (higher by 0.5″ at the center) to to help the bra deal with my tummy.
I used a blue bra making kit from Bra-makers Supplies and I added a stretchy golden lace I got from J&L Sewing Accessories on St Laurent.
Here’s the result:
It’s DELICIOUS!!!
Beverly was right when she said that, “the mark of a great fitting wire is that you don’t feel it, and it hugs the body curve.”
It is so comfy that I can’t stop wearing it!! This is my perfect bra!! I can’t wait to make some more.
Can I tell you a little secret: My breasts are not quite symmetric, there is a little discrepancy in the volume of each. In order to compensate for this difference, it is necessary to make the cups fitted to the larger breast and then add a “cookie” (a piece of padding to fill up the smaller breast cup), and so I did it!
How do you like it? Do you have any favourite bra patterns? Have you seen the beautiful images of the universe taken by powerful telescopes and satelites? Have the stars ever inspired you??
That’s it for today folks!
PS. Since I’ve been creating bras, and I will continue to from time to time, I’ve decided to add Erin’s banner for “Bra-a-week challenge“. You can click on the banner at the bottom of this page to visit her blog for lots of inspiration!!
I’ve also been adding other cool stuff to the facebook page as well! Follow the link to like the blog!
https://www.facebook.com/MexicanPink
Stay tuned! Next up the Bravo Bra #2 by BravoBellaBras!
mexicanpink 
Hey lingerie model! Amazing bra, and you look great in it. I hope you are making matching underpants-that color scheme deserves it. Would you come to Chicago and help me with my sewing (and sass!)? I just love your posts, Montserratt.
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Hahaha!!! The secret is in the photographer! 😉 I have David take my pictures. He is a good looking and funny paparazzi! 😉
I would love to make matching underpants! I just don’t have any more fabric… I should get some right?
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Absolutely. I insist on it.
🙂
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I will!! 😉 thanks!
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Excellent bra and you look gorgeous wearing it! Your color choices always make me swoon with delight! Making matching undies is such a fun companion project to sewing bras, so yeah, get extra fabric :D!
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Thanks Ginny! You’re a darling! 😉
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Gorgeous!
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Thanks Michelle! 🙂
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Yay, you look sexy in your new bra! And I am happy to hear that it fits you so well. The colors you chose look great. Great job! 🙂
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Thanks for the complements my darling! 🙂
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Wow, that’s amazing, a bright and cheerful bra that fits. It’s so good I almost want to consider making one myself. (cannot face thought of fiddly precise sewing, fitting, oh and having to buy all the wierd sounding stuff).
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Hi dear, it’s really not that much of a trouble if you have the right instruction and materials. Check my post of the lavender bra with a pop of pink. I link to the resources I used.
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You’re so helpful, but too many things to make and not enough time, I have to draw the line somewhere! Maybe next year.
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Good luck with all your projects! 🙂
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You are the bomb! You have just sewn yourself an awesome bra! It looks lovely on you and your color choices are the best, plus you look so happy modelling it. You have now inspired me to make a bra for myself.
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Yeeeeeiiiii!! Yes, I would totally love to see how it goes!! Is it your first time?
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Never though of making a bra before, but when I saw the awesome job you did with yours, well…it got me thinking I’d like to try one myself. I’m very curvy and blessed with a big “endowment” and oftentimes good, large size bras are not so easy to find. Even when you can find them, the fit is not quite to my liking. Thanks for the nudge I needed.
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I would totally recommend it. I don’t think I will go back to ready to wear bras. I would also recommend that you read my post on the lavender bra so you are more likely to start with the right instruction and materials. 😉
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Thank you for your advice. I will definitely check out your lavender bra post and go from there. 🙂
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Good luck! 🙂
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I love your bra!! I have joined and been following Beverly’s class (which is awesome). I have completed 2 bras so far and the 2nd looks great, but I’m still working on perfecting the fit of the cups. The 1st was too large, the 2nd I think may still be too large as I’m not getting the lift I need. I’ve measured myself again & this time I may go strictly by the bcd measurement for making the bra instead of the other measurements. My 3rd kit has already arrived, but I’m waiting to hear back from Beverly for suggestions.
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Hi Dee,
It is a good idea to wait for Bev’s feedback. She is really helpful and will surely get back to you soon! I can’t wait to see your creations. Are you posting them in the Craftsy platform?
M
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I’ll try to post on the platform. So far I’ve just posted pics in the comment sections where we watch the class videos. I think I’ve been a little off with my bcd measurements. Aren’t we supposed to measure from our nipples down? I was measuring from the center line of my bra down & I didn’t have it on the first time I did it, lol. Once I get the measurments & the cups fitting right, there will be no turning back!
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You should definitely go back to Lesson 1 Chapter 3 Choosing your pattern size.
To determine your bra-size you should be wearing your best fitting bra, a cut and sew one; a bra with NO FOAM cups. For bras from BraMakersSupplies you should measure the high bust and the full bust. You need no more*. Just follow the video, she even goes through the calculation.
Best,
M
*Note: You will find that for different bra patterns, you may need to determine the appropriate pattern size differently. Make sure to check the pattern instructions.
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Omg, I just realized where I was messing up with my measurements. I used 48 for my band size instead of 40. 48 is my full bust, & my high bust is 40. No wonder the bra was big & had no lift. My 1st bra I cut out was 48H & should have been 40H. I feel so silly making this mistake. But my excuse is that I’m a newbie to bra making lol. I’ll have to cut out the correct size & get started with bra #3. I’m glad it came to me what I was doing wrong. I’m almost tempted to do 42H, as the bands tend to turn out sort of tight. If I may ask, do you double up on your powernet for the band? I did with the 1st two & it’s pretty snug. So I’m wondering if I should just go with 1 layer this time. Even though this will be bra #3 for me, I’m still considering it a “fit” bra.
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Hi Dee,
Yeah, I did the same mistake with the measurements. I used 42 for my high bust instead of 44 and my band was too tight. It is really important to take measurements right. It’s good you realized! 🙂
What I ended up doing was increasing the band size by 2″ total, (ie. 1″ on each side) following Beverly’s class on band alterations Lesson 5 Chapter 4. It is very easy.
In any case, if you still feel your band is too tight you can make a bra extension by sewing the hooks and eyes of a bra you don’t use any more. This has been quite useful for me, many of my bras are much more comfortable when I use the extension.
As for the powernet, I only use one layer and I feel quite comfrotable. Ihaven’t really had any problems with this.
I hope this helps! 🙂
I would love to see your bra #3! 🙂
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Good morning, I cut my fabric for bra #3 last night. I’m hoping to start on it today. If not, definitely sometime this week depending on my work schedule. I haven’t heard back from Beverly yet, but I should be ok with this 1 now that I’ve figured out what was going on. I look forward to seeing more of your creations!!
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Good luck Dee! 🙂 Have you checked the class announcements? Maybe she is actually traveling or on vacation. She was responding me quite reliably.
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She usually responds to me, so I figured she may be busy. I’ll send her another message once I finish this bra & I see how to post it to the projects platform.
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Awesome! Good luck! 😉
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Let me know if I can help you with anything. 😉
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Hi, how are you? I just finished bra #3 a few minutes ago. Looks like I’ll have to let the back band out a little. I can hook it, but can’t turn it around to the front to put the bra all the way on to really see how it looks and fit. I’m thinking I should have gone with the 42h, instead of 40H. I’ll try to put it on again later.
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Hehehe! Hi Dee,
You could actually wear that bra if you just make an extension. That is what happened with my and second versions. The band does run a bit tight. Do you have an old bra of a symilar color that has the same number of hook and eyes rows? I can tell you how to make the extension using your pieces of your old bra.
M
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My rtw bras have 5 as far as the hook & eyes. But I’ll see if I can cut them down to 3, like these bras. Or maybe I can use the hook & eyes from my 2nd bra, which is pink. And the 1 finished today is peach. They are close enough in color for me to try the extension.
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Hi Dee,
If you are not going to use the the 2nd bra, you can use those hooks and eyes, otherwise, it would be just fine to use the ones that have 5. You would just have some extra hooks once you hook the extension.
All you have to do is to sew the side of the hooks that attaches to the band to the side of the eyes that attaches to the band. It will probably look something like this once you hook it:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/5Pcs-Bra-Extenders-Strap-Extension-2-Hooks-6-Colors-New/2038767908.html
Make sure that the hooks face the back and the eyes the front, opposite sides.
If it is still tight, you can try adding some elastic in between. So it would look something like this.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/Hot-Selling-1Pcs-Bra-Extenders-Strap-Extension-3-Hooks-3-Colors-New-Women-Intimates/32393438861.html
I only made one extension and I wear it with all the bras I feel are a bit tight. It works wonders! 😉
Instead of drafting a new pattern size, you could just grade the back band. I found adding 1″ to the band pattern, for a total length of 2″, my band was quite comfortable.
Good luck!
Let me know how it goes! 🙂
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Thanks so much for the advice. I will try the extension, then i can try it on to see if I need adjustments anywhere else.
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Good morning, I just did the extension & was able to get the bra on, lol. Unfortunately, it’s too small. The cups under the arm can be higher by about 2 inches. Then the front part of the cups could be higher by 2-3 inches as im spilling out of the cups. And the back band can be let out about 2-3 inches. Because even with the extension, it’s still pretty tight. I’ve tried 46 & 48h, both were too big. 40h is too small. So the only thing left is to try 42 & 44h. I feel like goldie locks & the 3 bears, trying to get a good fit, lol. I think I should lean towards the 44h.
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Hi Dee,
I recommend that you post the picture in the Craftsy questions section and ask Beverly for advice.
Cheers!
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I’m trying on the 46h again & I like the way the back band fits & I should be able to tweak the cups. I’m just not getting the lift I’m looking for. I don’t wear wires in my bras, so I don’t know if that is making a difference. But my rtw bras have no wires & they fit fine, but they are made from a heavier fabric though. I just don’t know what to do at this point.
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I always use underwires, specially since my bust is larger than a C cup.
Wearing the bra without underwires won’t make it contour your breasts as it would if you were wearing them. The tissue moves downwards due to gravity. You can’t expect to have the same support without underwires. That may be the problem with your bras. Do you have any older bras which you are not using that you can get the underwires from?
M
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I posted before, but never received a reply, but I reposted the pics & issues. I don’t have any bras with wires. They are all wireless, but have a perfect fit. It’s been years since I’ve worn wires in my bras.
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Hi Dee,
Since you have perfectly fitting wireless bras, you may be better off copying the pattern from the bras you love the fit of.
Check this post from Andie about how to clone the pattern of a bra you love:
https://sewprettyinpink.wordpress.com/2015/02/24/attack-of-the-bra-clone/
I hope it’s useful to you.
M
You may find it useful.
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I guess I better get back used to wearing wires again, because I am determined to make a bra that fits & is wearable. I’m going to see what Ms. Beverly has to say about my pics, but I’ll still order wires with the next kit & give that a try.
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Hi Dee,
I found that the underwires from many of my RTW bras were right size.
Beverly said that, “the mark of a great fitting wire is that you don’t feel it, and it hugs the body curve.”
BraMakersSupplies has several wire sizes and a reasonably good tutorial on how to measure them. I recommend you to glue the wire sizing sheet to a thicker and more stable material which you can cut through (maybe something like a thin foam board) so you can better select the size appropriate for you. You would also want to compare the current wire size of the bras you have (if any) and maybe get a few of the sizes in that range so you can test.
Still, if you love the wireless bras you have, you should definitely give a try to Andie’s tutorial. That may be a better solution for you.
Cheers!
M
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I’ll see if she responds this time.
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You have to post the picture and situate the problem in the Questions section of the class. Otherwise she won’t see it.
M
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Beverly responded instantly this time. I think the 1st message I sent her a few weeks back was lost somehow, because I couldn’t find it. I sent her pics of the 44h & she wants me to try 46h as I need more coverage in the top cups. So I’ll order another kit this week, I’ll definitely take your advice & get wires as well. I’ll just have to get used to wearing them again :-).
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Awesome!
Read my last couple of comments, you may find useful information there.
I’m looking forward to hearing how it goes for you.
Best,
M
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Dee!
I just found that Bra Makers Supplies also designs has bras designed to be worn without underwires. Look for this model in their website: Soft Cup Bra , PZ-107
I hope that helps! 🙂
M
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Thanks so much, I will take a look at that. I have my bra kit & I got the wires this time. When I have a day off I’ll get started on it. I also ordered the panty pattern this time too. I’ve cut the fabric out for that, so I’ll put that together as well when I get a day off. Are you working on anything new?
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Hi my darling,
Yes! I’ll be posting a dress this week and I am working on a jumpsuit next. We’ll see how it goes. 🙂
I also want to try making a bikini!! Oh Lulu has a beautiful undies pattern.
I have that in my queue.
All best with your next trial. Let me know how it goes and I would love to see some pictures, let me know if you post your projects in craftsy so I can talke a peek! 😉
M
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Hi! It’s been a little while. I finished bra 4 finally (with the wire) & I’m closer to a better fit, lol. The wires in the front are sitting out & need to be closer to my chest wall, so I’ll go a size up on the next 1, with a larger wire. I also compared it to 1 of my rtw & I will need a slightly larger size. I’ll have to remember to shorten my straps by 2 inches as well. I’m getting there. How have you been coming along?
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Hi Dee,
That sounds like a good plan! Some times it’s not necessary to increase the wire size when you increase the cup size. I would recommend to leave the wire casing open and try both wires before closing.
I’m thinking of drafting my own bra now by following my measurements.
We’ll see how that goes. 😉
M
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Let me know how it turns out. I haven’t closed the channels yet. I’ll wait & try with the larger wires. I think I’m going to try a split lower cup too on my next bra. I have to wait a week until sweet cups is up & running again.
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I heard back from Beverly. She says I can cut out a dart in my top cups to close some of the space that’s there. So I’ll do that on the next 1. I have a question, I know usually with panties, it’s better to use a stretch fabric. But what if I want to use a fabric with little to no stretch? Like a fabric equivalent to polyester for instance.
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I in that case you would have to either use a panties pattern for woven fabrics or add ease through extensions, darts and elastic. I would definitely do a muslin before the final garment.
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I have the panty pattern from sweet cups & I made a pair with stretchy fabric (a test pair). I’ll try with the other fabric & add some ease like you suggested. And I’ll be sure to put elastic in the legs. I also have the “make your own panties” book. I’ll have to look through it again because I think I can cut the fabric on an angle (which should hopefully provide some stretch). I’ll experiment with it. I have a lot of fabric I can probably make panties with & use for bra cup coverings or something.
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You’re right! The bias of the fabric has a bit of stretch!
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I’ll have to get some of that 15 denier fabric to line my cups too. Lol
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Looks like I’ll have to take out a dart under the arm in the front frame & back band. It sticks out some & my wire sticks out some instead of lying flat in that area. Have you done a classic bra without split lower cup or do you always make the Shelley? I’m just trying to get a comparison on the fit with a split lower cup. From reading the comments on Craftsy, most people seem to like the split cup. I want to do a power bar too. I’ll have to pick up a French curve ruler this weekend so I can start on my alterations.
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Hi Dee,
Taking a dart sounds reasonable. Make sure to not take it at the wire, but rather a little bit inside the upper cup so you don’t alter the wire line. I found that my bravo bella bra was doing something symilar to what you are experiencing (https://monserrattlopez.wordpress.com/2015/07/25/lace-collage-bravobella-bra/). I unfortunately didn’t like this bra to continue with modifications.
As for splitting or not the lower cup, I have done both versions. I first started with a whole lower cup. My black lace bra (https://monserrattlopez.wordpress.com/2015/06/20/sexy-black-lace-bra/) has a one piece lower cup and you can see that the breast does not fall completely in the cup. Due to this, I decided to split the lower cup following the instructions in the class by Beverly. You can see the same bra pattern with the split lower cup in my Stardust bra (https://monserrattlopez.wordpress.com/2015/07/11/we-are-stardust-bra/). This modification definitely makes my breast fall better inside the cup and fill it up. This is the reason why I decided to split it. The fit in my blue bra is much better due to this alteration.
I hope this helps.
M
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I love the work you have done with the bras. I have split the bottom cup on my pattern. I’m hoping for a more “rounded” look. I was thinking about cutting out a power bar as well, but I think I’ll just try the split cup 1st. I’m sort of nervous about cutting a dart in the top cups, lol. When I did the last bra, I did not add stabilizer to the neckline, so I wonder if that made a difference in how the fit turned out. I still may need to do the darts though so the fit is more snug in the underarm area. I ordered a kit this morning since sweet cups is up & running again. I also ordered the bra maker manual on cd.
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Happy Monday!! I am so excited. I will start on my bra this week. I have decided to go with the 48H size because it has more of the coverage I’m looking for. I experimented & put the wires in & it’s a better fit with them. I’ve shortened my straps by 2 inches & I’ll have to make sure my back band is the same size I used for the 46H. The only other thing I may have to do is take out darts in the upper cups, but I’ll see how it fits first once I’m done with it. I won’t split the bottom cup on this size yet.
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Excellent! Good luck Dee! 🙂
M
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