Let’s face it, there are some pieces from ready to wear (RTW) clothing that we would love to keep or maybe we love the most or would be perfect except for that little detail that could be improved. These pieces have the potential to be copied and rebuilt into our next favourite creation. Today I will show you how you can duplicate the pattern from your favourite pair of jeans.
I will show you trace “the sloper” ; the basic pattern pieces with no seam allowances. Once we are done with this tutorial, you can add the seam allowances to the pattern pieces and build your jeans.
Ready for the ride?!?!
You will need:
– Your favourite pair of Jeans
– A roll of medical examination paper or some other semi-transparent paper you use for patternmaking
– Straight and curved rulers
– Pencil or washable markers
– Masking tape
– Measuring tape
How to do it?
The front piece:
1) Take your pair of pants, turn them inside out and introduce one leg inside the other. Your jeans should look like this:
Now, examine your pants. You will realize that likely the front is narrower than the back and that the crutch line length is very different for the front and back pieces (as can be seen from the picture above).
With the front of the pants facing up, tape the crotch, the waist and the sides following along the seams. As shown in the pictures below.
Find the grain-line of the front and trace it with marker or with tape.
Now, flatten the front of the pants on the table and lay the pattern-tracing paper on top. You will hopefully be able to see the tape through the paper.
Pin the paper in place and with the pencil or marker follow the seam-line outlined by the masking tape. Make sure to flatten the pants and the paper before pinning.
Trace the whole front piece outline. It should look like this:
Label the pattern piece and trace the grain-line as in the picture below.
Trace the outline of the pockets and the zip fly as well.
You’re done with the front piece!
The back piece:
Since the back pattern piece is wider than the front, I find that dividing it allows to properly trace the full piece.
Let’s start by using a piece of tape to clearly label the grain-line approximately along the center of the back piece as illustrated by the pictures below.
Just as before, we will outline the seams of the back piece. Apply marker along the seam-line and grain-line to remember where you should be tracing (see picture above).
We will first be tracing the pants from the crutch to the grain-line (see the region shaded in blue in the picture below).
Flatten the pants on the table so that you can easily trace the partial back piece from the crutch to the grain-line. Pin and trace. Trace the grain-line as well. You should have something like this by now:
Now we will trace the pants from the grain-line to the side seam (see the region shaded in blue in the picture below).
To do this, unpin the tissue and free the pants from the paper. Turn the pants so that now you can flatten the region between the grain-line to the side-seam.
Align traces on the paper with the marks on the waistline, the grain-line and the leg opening. Pin and continue to trace the rest of the pattern onto the tissue. Label the back pattern piece.
If your pants comprise more than these tow pieces, which they likely do, for each piece you should outline them with tape, pin and trace as we did before.
Make sure you copy and trace the location of pockets and other details.
True the side-seams of the front and back pattern pieces as well as the crutch line and the other joining seams of the pattern pieces.
If you want to do any changes to the pattern, you can trace them now. I labeled my changes in a different color.
REMEMBER: The pattern you just traced is a sloper of the jeans you have. YOU STILL HAVE TO ADD SEAM ALLOWANCES BEFORE YOU CUT THE FABRIC AND SEW IT!
P.S. Here are some links to tutorials to get patterns from RTW:
Let me know if this tutorial is useful and if you have any questions!