I had been considering making a pair of pants for quite a while now. However, I was unsure about how to grade the commercially available patterns to fit my body (there are not many tutorials for grading pants for plus sizes out there) and I have never really tried using a pattern drafted for my size.
Jacqueline, my sewing guru, recommended to try grading making sure leave the crutch wasn’t changed (because obviously that is the hardest part to get right). I proceeded to grade a commercially available pattern by extending the side seams and the crutch length, but that muslin turned out unsuccessful (so much so that I didn’t even take pictures…).
Jacqueline then suggested to copy the pattern from a ready to wear (RTW) pair that fitted well. I asked her to teach me how to do it, and we got ourselves started on a woven denim pair of pants. Copying the basic front and back pieces from the RTW pattern was super easy. If you are interested in the technique, I can post a tutorial on how to do it.
After the basic pieces of the pattern draft were copied, I started the muslin in stretchy denim (~3%) leaving 1″ seams in case there needed to be any fitting. The pattern came together very easily and the fit was pretty much on the spot except for a few darts required to add shaping at the waist back. I interfaced the waistband and added a zipper at the side seam. The seams were finished serged using Heather’s tutorial.
I really like these pair of pants!! I never thought that drafting the pattern from a ready to wear pair would be such a bliss. The alterations were minimal and the fit is 100% better than that of many other pants I have tried to make from commercially available patterns. I love them, they are neat and comfortable to wear. 🙂
I will definitely be trying this method with other RTW pants. For next versions, I will also try to draft a proper zip fly at the front as well as front and back pockets.
Overall, making these pants was great fun!
Do you like these? Have you ever made a pair pants by copying a RTW pattern?
Have a nice weekend!!