M6172 the jacket muslin


Hi dears,

Today I will be showing you my muslin and a peek at the final draft of the Mcalls M6172 pattern.


I made it following Pam Howard’s classes on Craftsy. I will first review the class briefly and then proceed to show you the results of the jacket fitting process. I made it following the Jacket Fitting Techniques class by Pam Howard.


I started this project because I had never owned a jacket that fitted properly. When I went to look for one, this is the best the ready to wear options had to offer.


See the pulling at the center front?

This issue evidences a poor fitting. The solution would most likely be a full bust adjustment (FBA).


Class review


If you are interested in any of these classess, I’m confident to say that Pam Howard is absolutely the best online teacher I’ve had. Her teaching approach is very clear and suitable for the beginner and the experienced sewer. The content is very well organized and delivered with excellent quality instruction. I can’t recommend her classes enough.

The class: Jacket Fitting Techniques


Pam shows how to modify the pattern adding an extra princess seam passing though the bust apex and teaches you how to assemble and fit the pattern muslin step by step.

Although it is a fitting class, this class wont’ teach you how to modify or grade the pattern for if you are out of the size range; it will show you how to better adjust and fit a jacket muslin to your body using the princess seams.

If you are out of the size range, you should grade the pattern or perform the pattern modifications we have previously talked about.


Plan of pattern adjustments for jacket

Select the pattern size:

I compared my body measurements to those of the pattern (see table below). For curvies, you usually select the pattern size based on how the bust size is compared to the measurement of your chest (the table below might make this clearer). I chose to go for a size 22.


Plan the pattern modifications:

After selecting the pattern size, I took the difference between my measurements and the measurements of the pattern.  The difference can be distributed as: 5″ from the bust apex through the waist and onto the hips plus 1″ distributed along the seams around the waist and the hips.



1: add  1″ total distributed around seams at the waist and hips

2: find my bust apex on the pattern (in this case, you are basically locating your apex at the princess seam)

3: 2.5″ FBA from the bust apex extended all the way to the hips (5″ total). Mary has a good tutorial on doing FBA on princess seams.

After performing these modifications to the pattern, I proceeded to make the muslin.The class then takes you through the steps you should follow to properly fit the jacket.


Here are the results:

The pictures above show the jacket modified to fit on the right side and the jacket unmodified on the left side. You can see that the fit on my right side is much better.

I then proceeded to transfer the modifications of the muslin onto the paper pattern and I started with the first version of the jacket.


Sneak peek?


I really loved the end result, but that is a story for a different post.

Have you had a good experience making your own clothes? are you more confident wearing them because of the fit you can achieve?

❤ M


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